Yeah- I forgot to mention this point. With pad clearances like they are, in most cases some method of shortening the housing is necessary to release the cable from the caliper. It depends on the caliper being used.

I use S-curve calipers which don't require anything. There's no noodle and the cable seat is quite shallow. The other caliper I use are Pauls and Gussetts. They do require some method of relaxing the housing as the cable seats at the caliper are quite deep. An inline adjuster would work, but I prefer not to. I either shorten the braze-on (rear cable stop) before attaching, and modify the caliper so the cable seat depth is less. It makes un-hooking the cable easy. I've also modified the rear stop to include an adjustment barrel (think downtube shifter stop). Or... unscrew the adjuster barrel at the lever before attaching cable to the caliper. You lose a bit of adjustment to compensate for pad wear, but not enough to matter. Pad wear is minimal anyway, and they ain't that expensive.

Maybe I should also mention that I use this on the rear only. They are on crit bikes where brake steering is sometimes a good thing, and I've not found a combo that offers the power and modulation of this setup. Some of these frames are so tight you can't get the wheel out without de-flating anyway. My daily city-fun bike also uses this braking setup. Wouldn't have it any other way. Unless of course aero is a consideration. If it weren't such a pain to take, edit and post pics, I would. I'll see what I can do.