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Old 05-12-15 | 06:26 PM
  #23  
D1andonlyDman
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,726
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From: Northern San Diego

Bikes: mid 1980s De Rosa SL, 1985 Tommasini Super Prestige all Campy SR, 1992 Paramount PDG Series 7, 1997 Lemond Zurich, 1998 Trek Y-foil, 2006 Schwinn Super Sport GS, 2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport

Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
I wouldn't spend so little.

Here's a $65 seat post:



You'll notice there's no saddle on it because the design was bad leading to a broken bolt after just 3415 miles. I had to stuff the saddle in my jersey pocket (wide end first, because it fell out when I tried nose first) and ride home without one.



I replaced the class 10.9 bolts with 12.9 having 20% higher yield and broke the front bolt again after 1693 miles when I weighed 148 pounds.

I told the manufacturer their design was bad and sent it back in case they wanted to investigate, then bought an $85 seat post which uses a male wedge on the post and female wedge on the cradle like a classic Campagnolo part, except brand new and without a vintage price tag.



That one didn't keep the seat tilted like I set it so I made it "really tight" with my regular length 6mm Allen wrench. That failing, I got a long hex key and made it "really tight." That still didn't work so I tried 16 newton meters using a torque wrench.

That seems fine so far, but I fear getting uncomfortable on a long ride or over compensating on adjustment (my right knee where I had a tibial nail installed is very sensitive to saddle height) and am going to upgrade to a $110 (used) Campagnolo Record SP-10RE seatpost with a clamp mechanism identical to my C-Record aero post, but round all the way up so I can insert it far enough into my frame with the newer version of my saddle that sits higher above its rails.

Maybe you just shouldn't buy overpriced junk. A seat-post that costs that much doesn't cost so much because it's strong, it costs so much because it's ultra-light, which in many cases means it's weaker than less costly components.
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