Originally Posted by
nuclear_biker
They're getting pretty concave, and the rear one has damage to it that couldn't be completely removed by the LBS and a spoke wrench. I will post a picture of this area later. I'm not sure how to tell how much life they've got left, but I could take some calipers to them later and try and get some idea. Any good way to gauge life remaining? My limited research indicates if they're concave and smooth, replace them.
I thought I remember the LBS guy mentioning it was cassette but I could be misremembering or he might have misspoken. Is there an easy way to tell? I will post a picture of it when I get home. I will also measure the dropouts.
Sounds like your rims are indeed due to be replaced. Find out if you have a cassette or freewheel here:
Freewheel or Cassette?
They should say "Shimano" on them somewhere unless the stickers are missing. If the front hub is some off brand that's fine but I don't bother re-using off-brand rear hubs since quality Shimano ones can be had so cheaply. If you buy used they can be had even cheaper.
If you shop smart you can save money building your own wheels. Or you can spend way more than you would on a prebuilt set. But if you want to learn IMO the experience is worthwhile.
Originally Posted by
SkyDog75
If you do need to replace them, it's often cheaper to buy pre-built wheels than to buy parts to build your own. Buying complete wheels also prevents things like buying the wrong length spokes, or the need for a truing stand, not to mention the time/effort/ability to build wheels.
Funny, I build my own wheels to prevent things like broken spokes, or the need for constant truing due to poor build quality, not to mention the freedom to build whatever I want. Like an old Campy record hub laced to a Velocity clincher rim for my fixed gear commuter. Try finding that pre-built. Or my cyclocross race wheels with Shimano cassette hubs laced to old tubular rims (GEL280, Fiamme Ergal, etc.)