Old 05-23-15, 06:03 PM
  #4  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,729

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times in 1,437 Posts
Originally Posted by motorapido
I hadn't even considered the chamfer on the stud. I think this is a risky setup. Note: nylock insert is at the top/exit of the nut, not the entry, luckily.
Is there a place to find a millimeter or two, ie. remove a washer someplace? If not, and if this is on the front, you can drill the back of the fork to 8mm (5/16") and use a recessed nut. No need to counterbore, the flange of the nut can sit outside the fork. If you go this route, you'll need to shorten the bolt about 4-5mm or so.

If this is a rear brake, odds favor you if you go ahead. The brake won't tear loose in use since it's pushing not pulling on the bolt.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline