Lots of rides in, and I've finally nailed it down. Next week, if I have the cash and it's still there, I'm going to spring for a
2014 Raleigh Revenio 3.0. It has 105s, decent wheels, and a carbon fork for $900something on clearance. If either of those two conditions isn't met, I'm getting a Defy 5 for $600 (minus a $100 gift certificate, minus whatever they give me for my old beater) and I'll ride it like I stole it until I get to the point (if I ever do) where I feel like the components are holding me back. Turns out the reason I thought the Defy was so squirrely was because I was riding on too small a frame. And honestly, 2015 Claris gears are SO MUCH nicer than 2002 mid-range mountain-bike gears, so it still feels like butter.