Old 06-17-15 | 10:08 PM
  #7  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,864
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

It's a straightforward job, but requires the right tools in good condition. A reamer is preferred to bring the ID out to the correct tapping diameter, so the tap isn't overworked. I've also done it with a half round file, using the old threads as a depth guide. File until only the last vestiges appear as a thin continuous helix. If your eyes are bad, the ID can be colored before starting for visual contrast.

You'll also have to file away any excess chainstay, seat or down tube that extends into the shell because the taps need to go pretty deep and can't be bumping into stuff.

Be sure to use plenty of quality cutting oil, (preferably an oil with sulfur and chlorine, rather than a water base), and monitor your torque so you don't somehow jam the tap because of chip overloading or other issue.

Total time for the job is 15-20 minutes if you have the reamer, or about an hour if using a file.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply