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Old 07-21-15 | 03:03 PM
  #18  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by 79pmooney
....A trick to setting chain tension that puts me in the ballpark virtually every time is to pull the wheel back with my left hand and over to the left chainstay, both firmly, while standing behind the bike. I tighten the right nut, center the wheel and tighten the left nut. Done. Proper slack is nearly automatic when I do that, Now this might have to be modified a little for different chainstay geometries and tire widths.)

Ben
Yes, this method works decently if the ring is fairly concentric. Tightening the right first, then centering the wheel has the left side move forward a bit producing the needed slack (though not always enough if the rings are off).

Unfortunately most people do the exact opposite
, tightening the left nut first, then levering the right side back to center, thereby ADDING chain tension, which is probably one reason we have so many newbie posts on the subject.

IMO- it would be easier and clearer if we simply stopped saying chain tension, since there isn't supposed to be any. If we just said minimum chain SLACK, or take up excess SLACK, it would remind people that slack is the desired condition. Likewise for those infernal "chain tensioners" newbies install on the rear axle. They're not made to add tension like a screw jack, but to restrain the wheel from slipping under load.
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Last edited by FBinNY; 07-21-15 at 03:18 PM.
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