Old 08-05-15 | 02:53 PM
  #14  
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
Community Builder
Active Streak: 30 Days
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,711
Likes: 2,100
From: Madison, WI

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Originally Posted by Kertrek
I just thought of a question, and a pretty important one at that. Is loading up an aluminum framed stock hybrid very risky? Cause I can patch an inner tube easily, but I can't fix a damaged frame or bent wheels on the road.

I know steel is less brittle (though a bit heavier), but when I hit the local bike paths, with my aluminum bike, I can easily blow past all but the hardcore road cyclists, and it's 21 speed so does OK during climbs. I live in a valley, so touring always involves a lot of climbing.
Most touring bikes are steel, but some are Aluminum. If the bike frame looks and feels solid, while there are no guarantees, it probably will do ok. You would not be considering this if it did not fit you well, and fit is most critical.

Wheels can go bad regardless of frame material. Most of the load is on the rear, so if a wheel fails it is probably the rear. More spokes is better, most touring bikes have 36 spokes on the rear wheel, less is not as desirable. If the rear wheel is a 135mm dropout spaced hub, that is probably better than 130mm because a 135mm probably has slightly less dish. Assuming you do not know what I just said, refer to this link:

Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Reply