Like suggestion number two above, the two jaw puller will quite likely work. Now, sometimes it's difficult to find two purchase points 180 degrees apart on the crank drive side for the puller arms, but if the crank is scrap metal, a little grinding should offer enough of a notch to get both of the arms firmly around the center section and well hooked on the backside.

Then, and this is the nugget here, apply good and strong pressure with the puller, and while it's still under a lot of tension, hit the center hub of the crank arm perpendicular to the spindle shaft. Right on the side. Hit it like you mean it. That's a trick to applies to loosening any tapered installation whether on a car, bicycle, or anything. With the puller under a good serious bind, the sharp whack of the hammer will jostle the taper and they usually pop off into the floor at your feet.

(I'm a guy who worked on many, many car suspensions with tapered fittings on ball joints and tie rod ends. That hammer whack is the secret. In 20 plus years of doing it, I never found a single one that wouldn't pop loose that way).