Originally Posted by
FBinNY
I don't argue this type of stuff because it isn't worth it. People have different opinions, so I offer mine and let readers decide.
Normally a hanger tool is preferred for a number of reasons, including simply being easier to get it aligned, and I usually reserve the hex key method for field use.
But the OP seems to have it aligned decently, or at last decently enough that the RD is shifting as well or better than before, and he is satisfied with the performance ---- which is what hanger alignment is about in the first place.
This brings us full circle to the "don't fix what ain't broke" rational. The bike works, so there's nothing to fix now.
As for the hanger being weakened by bending, it shouldn't be an issue for a single bend and straighten cycle (or even for a few). New hangers are routinely bent after installation because they don't automatically sit square when first bolted on, so they are made with a certain amount of ductility to allow bending (within limits).
As I said earlier, the only thing the OP did wrong was talk about it, which exposes him to all the hand wringing and tsk tsk commentary.
Good thinking isn't digital aka binary or only one 0 and one 1. If insistence on binary thinking better have 30 data pts or 30 sets of 0's and 1's.
Or think analog which is what life is and certainly well engineered designs like derailleurs. Adequate shifting isn't the same as perfect shifting. You are the type of guy who settles and my background is developing designs and if well engineered designs are adjusted properly versus swagged then the result is much better. So no if it ain't broke don't fix it doesn't apply. There is a spectrum of good and a range of bad....not just either good or bad.
So, either do it right and align the hanger properly and derive the best shift performance...or settle for a range of 'ok' by swagging the hanger position by eye. Sometimes a big difference in performance between ok and perfect where the bike slams into gear down the cassette because indexing is dialed and the rear derailleur tracks dead orthogonal to the plane of each cog which the designers hope if not expect from a good bike set up and sadly rarely adhered to in my experience. Even bike shops using the Park Tool because of time constaints don't even get the RD dead nuts in many instances...if they don't cross thread the hanger hole in process....more ham fisted bike shop wrenches than not and the average guy is even worse but there are exceptions. Never seen a high end factory bike with perfectly plumb hanger either FWIW.
Will give you guys another tip that may save you some grief or a lot of $$$ down the road.
There may be an inclination when building a bike to adjust the hanger early in the build process...say with the wheel loosely installed in back without adequate skewer tension. BAD mistake. Always make sure the rear skewer is adjusted with full tension and the wheel is dead in the crotch of the drop out. The reason is bending the hanger puts a lot of stress on not only the hanger but on adjacent dropout. If failing to have the skewer fully tight, one can crack the carbon frame in fact..the dropout derives strength by the wheel axle and it needs to be very tight...same tension you ride the bike with which also affects wheel position and shift indexing as well.