Originally Posted by
rpenmanparker
That's ridiculous. What accuracy and precision are required? What accuracy and precision do the pricier wrenches provide? As most mechanics and many folks here will agree like Whyfi above, in bicycle work you don't tighten up to the max. spec. You tighten to the required level for the application while staying below the max. spec. Often the actual required level is only about 1/3 of the max. spec. or less. Perhaps that is different than nuclear reactors. I don't know, but it doesn't matter, does it? And then you aren't considering that the max. spec. must have a safety factor built in as well. Inexpensive torque wrenches are plenty good enough for bike work.
So for bikes, sort of or close or in the general area is good enough?
I'm used to aircooled VW engines where, the engine heats up it expands and that's when it reaches the true torque. So too tight and you snap a head stud. Too loose and you have compression loss since there's no head gasket. On intake manifolds, too loose and they tend to rattle loose and you have a vacuum leak. Too loose for a flywheel can really ruin your day.
I'd sure hate for the stem to come loose from the steerer when i'm riding.