Originally Posted by
oldnslow2
99% of my tools are S/K, so i have a S/K 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrench, so naturally i purchased a S/K 1/4" drive. Honestly it's not cheap... about $180, but i feel tools are an investment.
While I love my S/K tools and completely agree about tools being a lifetime investment (at 42 I already have some I've been using over 20 years) those are still spring-loaded micrometer wrenches you don't want to use over the whole scale or store without the tension released.
If you're going to spend that sort of money buy Stahlwille split-beam torque wrenches direct from Germany. With the strong dollar TBS-Aachen sells 730 series starting at $162 (143 Euros) and 730N for $182 (163 Euros). I paid $48 (42 Euros) for my 725B hex bit ratchet which doesn't buy a lot of quality bit sockets.
Or wait for a good used deal - on ebay I acquired my 730/2 4-20Nm wrench for $45. You can also look for VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group) and Mercedes torque wrenches which are Stahlwille plus the car company's part number.
After years of lust I acquired a 730/2 4-20 Nm, 730/5 6-50 Nm / 5-36 ft-lb, and 730/10 20-100 Nm / 15-72.5 ft-lbs which all take the same 9x12mm inserts. For inserts I have a hex bit ratchet which fits where square drives and bit sockets do not, a 3/8" 6 degree ratchet, 1/2" 6 degree ratchet, and 1/4" box wrench.
Some day I'll pickup the fixed 1/4" bit holder.
1. They're accurate over the entire scale (+/- 4% for 730 and +/- 3% for 730N on the factory calibration, but wrenches made after 2007 can be calibrated to +/- 1%).
2. Unlike other split-beam wrenches you can flip the head 180 degrees for counter-clockwise use (but must depress the insert release plunger with a small hex key or something to go back to clockwise operation)
3. On the 730 series you set torque almost instantly by holding down the lock and sliding the scale with opposite thumbs instead of cranking on the end as with a micrometer wrench. The 730N has a micrometer adjustment, except it's easy to turn since the insides aren't spring-loaded.
4. The heads interchange. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, hex bit, open-ended wrench, box-wrench, weld a lockring tool to a blank insert, whatever. Most are setup so torque is direct-reading.
5. There's no load on the internals except when you're torquing a bolt until it clicks so you can leave them set or loosen bolts without ill effects.