The angle of the seat tube is a big factor. But, that effects the length of the 'effective' top tube, depending on the angle of the headtube. So, to keep the top tube as short as possible, you also need a slack head tube angle --e.g., both tubes as close to 72° or less as possible instead of 73 or more.

The slacker seat tube enables you to get you knees back if you don't want them in front of the pedal spindles. A 61 c-c frame is about the biggest you'll see in new bikes. You'll want a flat top bar as a sloping top tube only accentuates the amount of seatpost rise and you won't need to worry about standover height.

Having a taller frame just means you need less seatpost and stem rise. A 61c Lemond (c-c) is the biggest frame I've had since having a 27" Panasonic back in the 70s. But, the Lemond's effective top tube is >60cm (because it has a steep headtube angle) and that's not what you're looking for. And, you definitely will be limited on how high up you can get your handlebars but with your current setup, you probably are already accustomed to a more aggressive riding position.

Looking to vintage and probably easier to find than others, you'd be looking for a --e.g., 25-1/2" Trek 520 tour bike frame as it has the slackest seat- and headtube angles.