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Old 09-17-15 | 10:12 AM
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ThermionicScott
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From: CID

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Originally Posted by jhaddad8
I bought a Miyata 310 off cl last spring and have since used it for two 200ks. I've concluded that I really like road cycling and randonneuring and want to spend some money making the bike better for more and longer rides. My goal is to complete a full SR series and R12 in the next ~12 months or so. My goal with this improvement is to improve comfort, speed a little and lighting situation for winter 200k's and rides over 200k.

I'll attach some pictures at the end, but let me first describe my current setup.
Shimano Claris compact double crank 46-34
6 speed mtb free wheel 14 - 34
27 in wheels of unknown origin probably not special in any way
continental gator skin tires
I just replaced the single pivot cantilever brakes with generic duel pivots cantilevers
A decent quality tactical flash light that I have a handle bar mount for, but since, my currently handle bar bag is big, I need to mount the light on the side of the handle bars in a spot where it limits some of my hand positions. It lasts 2 hrs on high power.

My current plan is to go all out buying a new wheel set. I'm thinking of getting hand built 700c wheels with a front generator hub. Something that would set me back somewhere in the $600-800 range maybe. Wheels that I'll one day take off of this bike and put on a new bike and will really be quality wheels for a long time.
If I'm going to get a new rear wheel then I'm obviously not going to get a freewheel but will start using a cassette. I think I want to get an 8 speed cassette because it just seems simpler and cheaper. New cassette means a new derailler. I bought a used derailler yesterday that should be fine for the job. Obviously switching wheels will require new tires. I've been looking at some of compass tires 700 x 28s.

Next thing to think about is a light. If I go this route and get a front wheel generator that I will get a really nice light that will go along with it and consider that done for good.

Fenders would be nice too. I'm hoping the smaller wheels/tires will give me enough room for fenders. If the new (to me) brake calipers are too short for the new wheels, I'm thinking I'll just buy generic long reach calipers.

So all this is option one. Price for now let's say
$700 for wheels with generator
$250 for light
$150 for tires
$50 for cassette and chain
maybe $20 for long reach brake calipers

The other option is to try and find good cheap wheels, something in the ~$200 range or less. Probably get the same tires for that. New cassette, chain and brake calipers. But, I think I'd end up spending more on a light system. It seems like I really need to invest in good lighting if I am going to ride through the winter and then during the longer rides.

So, I guess the question part of this is does this sound like a wise allocation of limited resources? Should I be buying a top of the line crank and something else instead of wheels? Will quality wheels last long enough to be worth it. Should I just leave the Miyata and get a new bike that is already better set up for randonneuring? As far as the price range I've talked about is concerned, I have the money to spend on this stuff, but, this will be my "big fun expense" for the year so I do want to spend it wisely.

Thanks for looking and thanks for your thoughts!

Attached is a pic an old pic of my bike, a few things have since changed, but not much.
I think you've got the right idea on building up really nice wheels that can be transferred to a better bike in the future, that it's not about sinking "too much money" into this particular bike.

Shutter Precision dynohubs are getting good reviews and are much cheaper than Schmidt hubs, and some of the newer B&M lights are worth looking into. You could knock a lot off your $950 budget and still have a great lighting system, in other words.

Also, "upgrading" beyond that Claris crankset and newer DP brakes would be a complete waste of money. Just get some Kool-Stop brake pads and those parts will be set.

EDIT: Looks like [MENTION=162965]clasher[/MENTION] beat me to some of these points while composing my post.
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