Thanks all for the advice fellas!
Originally Posted by
Greenfieldja
Since you are stripping some bikes to upgrade them to modern components then I would not invest in the tools needed for the old parts and just invest in the tools needed for the new parts. If you can't remove something with the tools you have then use a LBS or CoOp for the one time you will need a specific tool to remove a component. For the most part this refers to headsets and bottom brackets. It could also include hubs if you are going to be using hubs with cartridge bearings that do not need cone wrenches to adjust the bearing pre-load.
I don't mind buying a couple tools that I may not have much use for after the teardown to save a trip to the LBS. I have no LBS, dependent on your definition of 'local', and with driving a V10 it would cost me as much in gas (and time). But I will still have a vintage bike in original form (LeTour) and also I plan on expanding my vintage collection in the future (looking at a couple Voyageurs right now for more of a touring setup) so I may end up needing them again anyhow. So anything that I'll need at least a couple times, unless its really pricey like over $50, I'll just get.
Originally Posted by
Greenfieldja
What crankset will you be using? Will you be replacing the threaded forks with a threadless fork?
For removing a threaded road headset you only need one 32mm wrench. If you are going to continue using a threaded headset and fork then you will need one 32mm headset wrench and one large adjustable wrench or a regular 32mm open end wrench.
Dura Ace 7800, on at least one if not both. I am debating on trying a lightweight carbon crank like the FSA K-force or SL-k on the Prologue if I can get a good deal on one. But I just might use DA 7800 on both. As of now I plan on using the original forks. But I'd like to replace the 105 headset on the Tempo with perhaps a new Stronglight A7 or other polished one.
Originally Posted by
Greenfieldja
Instead of the lockring spanner us a mallet and screw driver to carefully tap the lockring off and then invest the money you saved by buying a good cable cutter...in the long run you will be glad you did. I am still using the cable cutter I bought in the late 80s.
For 10spd the chainwhip is only optional if you do not intend to ever remove the cassette...you won't need it for the install but to remove the lockring it or a variant is required.
I wondered about the lockring spanner but didn't know how hard it would be to remove. I may just buy the combo tool habilis mentioned with a chain whip and lockring in one. I put the chainwhip in optional since I don't need it right away. Yeah if I remove it later I know I'll need it.
Originally Posted by
Greenfieldja
I would also recommend you save money on the torque wrench. Unless you are going to be using carbon fiber parts such as h-bars, stem, seatpost then a torque wrench will be superfluous on any of the parts you will be using. Especially since you are going to be using a Hollowtech II crank arm. If you were going with a square taper crank and bb then I would recommend a 3/8inch drive or 1/2inch drive torque wrench for the install of both a cartridge bb and the crankarm bolts.
Well I already have some parts that specify particular torque value such as aluminum chainring bolts. I've been meaning to get one for a while anyhow, seems like I always come across something I wish I had a small torque wrench for so I knew it was tightened properly. I have a large torque wrench already, but that isn't suitable for small torque values. I have been looking at some carbon fiber parts, I got an all cf seat already on the prologue but having trouble justifying cf for many other parts... my aluminum seatpost I got (Thomson Masterpiece) is already lighter than the carbon posts I looked at and I was actually thinking about trimming it down even more.
I'm not strapped for cash that I need to sacrifice getting one tool for another, I just don't want to waste money unnecessarily. I'm frugal.
I've already got a good design I think for a stand, and I'll likely be able to build it with everything I have on hand already. Perhaps I may have to buy a can of spray paint to make it look nicer. I was really looking at the Park Tool PCS-9 but for almost $150 I was comparing it too a harbor freight engine stand that was infinity more heavy duty and half the price. Or for the same price you could get an engine hoist too, that has probably 100 lbs more metal in it plus wheels and a hydraulic cyclinder. Seems a bike stand is maybe $20 worth of material and the other $100+ profit? Ridiculous. I'm thinking of basically just making a bike clamp attachment on the end of my engine hoist.