If you create a modified stack of spacers to allow a Shimano 7s cassette to work with a Suntour 7s shifter and derailer, these will work with either the Uniglide or hyperglide cassettes. So you would be free to upgrade the hub later if you wanted, and your cassette and spacers would still be good.

The Shimano cassette hubs, even in their lowest-level offerings, are better designed and higher quality than most people might assume.
I consider their 7s and up freehubs to be the very best, and have been racing and abusing them off road for 25 years.

It was only the 600 and lower levels of their earlier 6s freehubs (the ones without the asymmetrically "bulged" hub centers) that had a tendency to loosen where the freehub body was swaged to the hubshell snout, which made adjustment of the bearings rather uncertain without securing the quick release tension to confirm the adjustment. The later 6s freehubs with the stepped hubshell center (and no oil port circlip) were extremely robust and so are perfect for any 6s application.

Adapting Hyperglide sprockets to the earlier "Uniglide" 6 and 7s freehubs requires only a few minutes with a 1/4" round file to narrow just the one widened spline on each Hyperglide sprocket. The metal cuts easily, and because there are 9 splines, one does not have to cut precisely, just get that wide spline narrowed down enough to fit and a little extra so you don't have to waste time doing any test-fits. The work goes really, really quick with a good file, it's not like cutting tool steel or anything.
Even the riveted cassettes with mounting hub "spiders" can be cut to fit the earlier hubs, but here I have used the edge of a large flat file with the cassette secured in a vise.

The modern quick-links are great for drivetrain tinkerers, allowing one to try different brands/models of chain on their experimental drivetrain for best shifting performance. The right chain can make a world of difference.