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Old 01-01-16 | 11:17 PM
  #187  
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WheresWaldo
Ride it like you stole it
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,996
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From: Union County, NC

Bikes: 2012 Cannondale EVO Ultegra Di2, Pedal Force Aeroblade, Rue Tandem

A more elastic type of filament may solve some of those issues. Have you tried printing with Nylon filament, like Taulman Bridge or Taulman Alloy 910. Both offer greater elasticity and have a lower coefficient of friction than PLA, ABS or even PET. It might just give you the flexibility you need without much of a redesign.

Originally Posted by JonnyHK
The basic design was pulled from a few sources, but I have hit a bit of a dead end with this one 'as is' and I'll need to start over a bit to get it to work.

I made it to fit a bit too well, so it didn't work in a variety of saddles. Too stiff and unforgiving.

Plan is to try the following:
- narrow the front end a little
- delete the cross piece/bridge in the middle
- work to make the whole thing a little flexible to a side pinch (hence deleting that cross piece) so that it can fit a variety of individual saddles, but not be too loose.
I usually print in PETG (eSUN brand), unless it is something I am just going to toss in the recycle bin, then I use PLA. I have the same issue with warping everyone else has with ABS, so I skip it. I have used Alloy 910 for a few parts and while still warping a bit on sharp edges, printing on a raft or with glue stick used on the bed can minimize it or completely eliminate it. You have to print hot, around 240-250°C. At high fill rates it is very durable, at low fill rates is is very elastic.
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Last edited by WheresWaldo; 01-01-16 at 11:22 PM.
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