View Single Post
Old 01-20-16 | 10:57 AM
  #27  
Tim_Iowa's Avatar
Tim_Iowa
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Cedar Rapids, IA

Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

Originally Posted by toavii
Thanks Grady. The problem with getting this done so quickly is now I need another winter project!
Very nice build on a nice bike.

I know what you mean; I just finished my winter project. I had this frame blasted and powder-coated, and then I built it back up. The dynamo wiring is what took me the longest.

This bike is a 1988 Schwinn KOM Project-10, their nicest MTB that year. Investment cast lugs, Tange Prestige. I turned it into a gravel/dirt road bike, commuter, and tourer.

Originally Posted by toavii
I've been debating between the Nitto M12 or the VO Pass Hunter front racks. Both mount to the cantilever brakes but unsure with which to go with.
The M12 is the nicer rack of the two (the VO has ugly welds, in comparison). The M12 can be found for $66 online, too.

There seem to be slightly different versions of the M12 with one, two, or zero threaded eyelets halfway down the support legs. Ensure you confirm which one you're getting, if that's important to you. For example, on the bike above, I mounted the dynamo headlight to the left support leg of the M12 (out of sight in this pic).

One issue with a front cantilever-mounted rack: What is the spacing between the cantilever posts on your RB-T? Is it the narrow, 1980s sport/touring bike standard? Or, the wider MTB standard? If your fork has the narrow spacing, you may need to do some bending of the cantilever mounts on any rack to line it up perfectly. FYI
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
KOM winter rebuild.jpg (101.4 KB, 307 views)
Tim_Iowa is offline  
Reply