Old 01-21-16, 11:05 AM
  #127  
cruiserhead
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Originally Posted by Gweedo1
So I'm guessing this "mechanic" is trying to drum up business for bike shops with that washing method? Detergents and pressurised water used near bearings and cables and on metals may/will cause rust and corrosion. Just freaking brutal.

I've never used pressurised water other than a spray bottle to mist surface areas I'm cleaning, i.e. never shift or brake components, and never used water anywhere near bearings or cables. I use wd40 or other penetrating lubricants and hand towels/brushes to loosen, flush and wipe away grit if the grit on my bike ever gets to be that bad, but it rarely does as I'm a fair weather, smooth road cyclist.

36,000 on my last bicycle chain; (25, 000 on my current MC chain): meticulous cleaning after pretty much all rides using products like wd40, or better yet, Sea Foam lubricant Deep Creep...nice and frothy going on, really good penetrating action, with a good wipe down afterwards. Keeping grit off the chain and cogs and chain rings is what stops wear, not the lube itself IMO. Lube just keeps the links from kinking up.

I'm the type who factors in time for an after ride lubing/wiping down; my bike is always clean and ready for the next ride. I check my tire pressure before each ride too. If you're the type who doesn't like to spend time working on his bike before and after rides, inspecting, cleaning, adjusting, ...well, then that won't work for you. Changing a bicycle chain every 6000-8000 miles? You've got to be kidding, yes?
Yup that's why all the pro teams wash every bike, every day during a race this way. The want to drum up business.
I suggest 150psi on the water.

I thought lube was to keep the rollers spinning freely on the pins but that must be nonsense.

I think the best method is to massage in the water with your fingers, to gently remove dirt.
Then, use toothpicks and floss on every link.
It's like a sauna for the chain.

Unicorn ear wax is brilliant. I love this forum.
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