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Old 01-25-16 | 10:57 AM
  #12  
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Tim_Iowa
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,642
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA

Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

Originally Posted by gsa103
Use the seatpost for clamping into the work stand. It's designed to be compressed and easily replaced.
Yes yes yes. Don't clamp a carbon frame tube. It's good that you padded it, and I doubt that you've torqued the frame enough to do any damage. But, if that stand falls over then the top tube may crack. Seat posts, even carbon ones, are much stronger.

Ensure that the handlebar stem is clamping on enough steerer; it should be at least 75% filled with steer tube. I can't see well enough to confirm.

I see that your cables are rubbing the head tube. If you cross the cables over to the opposite sides, they won't rub any more. This entails running the shift cables to the opposite holes at the top of the down tube, and crossing them over somewhere (easy on frames with external cable stops).
I'm not sure how the internal cabling works on that frame, so this may or may not be possible. But it solves head tube rub. Some folks protect the head tube with clear stickers, like chainstay protectors.

Otherwise, your build looks fine.
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