Originally Posted by
Lascauxcaveman
Originally Posted by
markwesti 
And be careful changing out those adjuster screws .
Pretty badly bent on the ends, very difficult to thread out that way. I've still got one in my Grandis that won't come out. Best bet is to try and run them back a bit, then drew the bent parts off, then back out forward. Hopefully the screw heads on the axle side aren't all smushed.
I've heard great things about them, I'm sure they're pretty great bikes but it seems they show up here quite a bit. Though I guess that may say more about here. But not so rare that you can't repaint it if you want.
The 7xx series are the full Trek Reynolds 531 butted tube set. They can be a little noodley for some riders, but this tube set was the choice of top racers for a long time.
That said, I have a 610 in that size from 1984. It has (best I can tell) a 10/7/10 downtube where the standard from Reynolds (not just for Trek) was a 9/6/9 downtube which should be a little more flexible and smooth. I've always thought the 610 is a little stiff and harsh.
I think you can get the adjuster screws out by carefully straightening the bend ends with a pliers, being careful not to further distort the threads. If they are really bad you can file the threads down so they can't damage the frame's threading, then just turn them out with a screwdriver. You should be able to measure the threads of the screws you remove and find replacement adjusters that will match. I'd recommend having adjuster screws, rather than not having them. I like that they enable the wheel to go in and find the correct alignment time after time without any messing around.
I think you have the 52 mm c-c frame size, same as my 610. It' a little too small for me, but the next size up from Trek (56 cm c-c) is just too big.