I noticed a crease in the back of my fork blades and it looks like it took a hit/badly repaired. So I need a new fork.

I'll probably just pick up a used NJS fork since they're so inexpensive. The problem is my bike has a taller head tube and will need a threaded fork with a 195-200mm steering tube...almost all used NJS forks came off smaller frames with steerers in the 125-175mm range.

Now trying to find a good lugged track fork with a low rake and tight clearances (so you don't have a large gap above the tire) is next to impossible. Closest thing I've found is Waterford...and they want $425 for a fork.

Anyone just lengthen a threaded steering tube?

2 methods.

#1
-Cut the threaded section off my existing fork and weld that onto the new fork's steerer. Most likely cut the new fork below the threads so the two pipes can be welded together at a non-threaded section.

For added strength, take a small 4" pipe with an outside diameter of around .850 (same as a 1" steerer tube's inside diameter). Smear some JB weld on the small pipe, insert it into the steerer tube, JB weld the exposed section, then slide the additional threaded piece over that. OF course the joint will be still be regular welded as normal. Figure inner tube will give added strength. Overkill?


#2
-My friend is absolutely convinced this can easily be done with JB weld and I'm overthinking this. Do everything the same as #1 (but using a longer inner sleeve) and just the do the full sleeve/joint using JB Weld. He thinks using a longer inner sleeve that's a tight fit will give the JB Weld a huge surface area for a strong bond. Plus the joint itself will have more JB Weld.
He's convinced because JB Weld has fixed holes in engine blocks....I'm not so convinced because the exterior of an engine block is different than a stressed joint.

#2 would be awesome because it would save me a bunch of time and not have to take it to a welder...but it makes me nervous. #1 seems more common sense.