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Old 04-20-16 | 10:44 AM
  #21  
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Bike Gremlin
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Novi Sad

Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters

Originally Posted by gkastraveckas
Good feedback, thanks everyone. The reason i ask is that i started commuting year round about 2 years ago and after the winter a lot of parts went to hell. I changed what i needed to but don't want to do that every spring. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get a second bike or just switch out wheels. Do you typically need to change out chain, chainrings and cassette yearly?

PatrickGSR94, I definitely know Muddy Waters, good place. Unfortunately I don't know any other cyclists, I would like to get involved in that community though.
Winter (and salt) are pretty tough on the drivetrain. But that also depends on what you use. Up to 8 speeds at the rear has proven to be bomb proof for me. Even the cheapest parts. 9 and more - the things get more sensitive.

Aluminium doesn't rust, but steel chainrings are both cheaper (heavier) and harder to wear, even in the winter. Just clean and lube chain and chainrings from time to time, in the winter especially.

Sprockets - I get cheaper, lower class ones - a bit heavier, but they last one winter - just like the more expensive ones. And work the same.

Chain - decent 6-7-8 speed chain is about 10 euros and it gets done after one winter. So about 2 chains a year for me - one for the November-March, the other for the rest of the year.

Derailleurs - never had problems. A no-name (Chinese) rear derailleur has been on my MTB for five hole years (all year long riding) - cost a couple of euros. Front derailleur on my all year MTB is from 1996 - still working fine. That one is Shimano.


Also, make sure to grease the bearings (both wheels, even the steerer) before and right after the winter. October and March for me.

Derailleur pivot points also - a bit of (new, clean) engine oil works wonders.

Cables - important for high precision 9, 10, 11 speed stuff - for 8 and less gears, it can work OK even with rusty cables and housings.
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