Originally Posted by rekmeyata

You sure do assume a lot. I can bet you that I can fix a flat, assuming I know where the hole is from the start, and fix my tube as fast as you can taking one out and putting a new one without the use of CO2. I have a method I've used for years, most of the time I don't even have to remove the wheel from the bike, I leave the wheel on and remove about 1/2 of the bead on one side with the penetration point being in the center, I then pull out about a 1/4th of the tube again the hole will be in the middle, I then buff the tube and apply the glueless patch and press as hard as I can for 30 seconds, check the inside of the tire for any perturbing objects if it wasn't sticking out of the tread and remove it, reinstall the tube and tire, pump and go. Obviously this method doesn't work all the time, but most of the time it does. When it doesn't work that way you will probably beat me, but I would rather find the leak while I'm there because everything is apart and I can index the tube once I found the leak to find the penetration point and make sure nothing is still stuck that would flat either a new tube or a patched one. And I use to live in the Mojave Desert, and Palm Desert area of Southern California, don't tell me about hot days, I did it plenty of time in temps in excess of 100 degrees.

I don't use latex tubes, I found them to be a waste of money with no discernible difference in flats or performance, although supposedly there is about a 1 to 2 watt gain which can't be felt anyways but if I was racing I would use them, they were a tad more comfortable though. Glueless patches do not stick to latex permanently they will stick for about 3 to 5 days, so you were partially right on that one. And to toss a $20 plus tube every time there is a hole makes my earlier example even more lopsided in regards to the point I made about time is money.

You can fix latex tubes though and save a lot of money on buying new ones every time you have a flat. You simply take an old latex tubes and cut a bunch of 1" diameter pieces, then when you have a flat you use Pastali rim glue that's used for tubular tires, and spread a very thin coat on both the patch and the tube, then apply it and press flat as hard as you can for about 30 seconds and the tube is good to go. The rim glue works better than trying to vulcanize it since latex is not butyl, it will work but I've found it doesn't last as long maybe a 6 months...I can't recall now it's been a long long time since I tried vulcanizing glue on latex, but even with regular patch glue you still have to put the glue on both the patch and the tube. So if I was using latex today I would replace the tube on the road instead of patching it and wait till I got home to patch...but I would still carry patches with me because one never knows if they'll get a 2nd flat in one ride.

I haven't found any reliable tubes for $2.00 or less as you stated that you use, I've had issues with those cheap tubes using poor quality presta valves, inconsistent tube wall thickness, seams that split, and the weight of them are heavier than other tubes. I also stock up on tubes but that's because my LBS has a running sale on Specialized tubes where if I buy 3 I pay $21 instead of $10 for one, but since I patch I only have 2 or 3 at the most in reserve.