Originally Posted by
REDMASTA
Yes I measured as exact as I could with a tape measure using Sheldon's method, the front chain line was between 49-50mm. The rear chainline was at 42-43mm. I could remove the chain and get more exact measurements but the chain line is clearly off by at least 7mm.
I measured roughly 10mm clearance between the chain ring and the chain stay not worried about it hitting, even more between crank arm and chain stay (but that will vary depending on the crankset I use).
I probably have to just remove the crank and the bottom bracket and see what it is. Either way it can't stay this way. If I'm lucky I'll just buy a shorter spindle BB and hope that alleviates the problem. I don't understand why they sell them with a chain line this way off. Now I understand why the 16t stock cog teeth were so thin and pointy. I could just put that back on but want to use the 17t.
Edit: Wanted to add it looks to be a KMC Z410 chain, definitely 1/8".
Not to alarm you, but I think it might be time for a string test. Mass produced frames have (IMO) very lenient tolerances. It is possible that BOTH chain stays are a few mms to the right of center. It's not uncommon. It can easily be fixed using Sheldon's 2x4 technique. I've done it a few times and there's no drama or damage. Plus it's nice to know that your bike is "perfectly" aligned.
If your chain ring is only 10mm from the stay, moving it in ~8mms with a new BB will put it pretty damn close. Crank arms too.
Scroll down to "Checking Alignment (Symmetry)" to see how to measure the frame with a piece of string and a ruler. If it's not aligned well scroll up to "spreading the frame" to see how to tweak it back to straight.
Without having the bike in front of me, my gut suspicion is that you have two issues, improper alignment AND a BB spindle that's too long.
Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing