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Old 07-20-16, 09:01 AM
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deepakvrao
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Originally Posted by velociraptor
In other words, it only takes 3 minutes (at max) to change a tubed tire as opposed to your 10 minutes (at least) to change a tubeless.

(10 - 3 = 7)

All in the pursuit of what again?
1. My wife rides alone often, and there is no way she can change a road bike tyre, so I'll get called
2. The 10 minutes is at home with a beer, not at the roadside in the rain
3. hopefully this 10 minutes will save a number of 3 minutes on the road
4. I take 10 minutes to change a flat anyway, plus no CO2, so I pump

Originally Posted by prj71
Compressor isn't needed either. I set mine up tubeless with hand pump. I think it's a matter of having the right rim and tire setup.
This tyre/rim combo - impossible without a compressor

Originally Posted by dvdslw
No harm in having some fun around here, but as far as the op goes, his problems started when he opted for a tubeless setup that required the use of rim tape. There was a time when I didn't know any better and bought some wheels that needed tape, had problems, and quickly learned that its not ideal for road tubeless. Now that I've been self educated about the many potential problems that could arise from the use of rim tape in a road tubeless setup I simply take it out of the equation by choosing a rim that doesn't need it at all which simplifies the entire process.

Potential problems with rim tape;

Not enough - Tire won't inflate or inflates but leaks air through the spoke holes especially on carbon wheels where it's an open hole allowing air and sealant to fill the rim and slosh around.

Too much - Difficulty mounting tire because the extra tape increases the overall diameter of the rim making it next to impossible to mount a tire plus you take the chance of the tire bead not engaging the bead hooks properly due to the excessive build up potentially causing your tire to burp off the rim at any given time.

Too wide - May sound stupid but if you haven't gone shopping for rim tape you have no idea. There's several different widths to choose from plus a lot of guys seem recommend Gorilla tape which seems to seal really well but must be trimmed to fit your rims lengthwise, who's done that? If the tape is too wide it could also interfere with the bead lock interface causing a failure.

The tape will also come unglued if its old, installed incorrectly, or gets disturbed during the mounting/dismounting of the tire to where a portion of it as nicked or raised enough for the liquid sealant to get in there and start working on the adhesive.

And let's not forget what happened to me with my Carbon Assaults that were manufactured with some uneven seams where the rim tape adheres to the rim that would allow air and sealant to make its way into the rim.

All of the above can be avoided by choosing a wheel set that is Certified Road Tubeless, just saying.

Not available where I live, and importing costs a fortune.

Originally Posted by chaadster
You know I respect you, but that's some misleading commentary. The OP's problems started when he decided to ignore advice and make uninformed decisions on his own, for example in using Kapton tape, which isn't even available in the size spec'd on Velocity's website for the A23.
Absolutely agree, the Velo/Stans tape are multiple times better than the Kapton. Figured I'd save some money, as so many guys had said that they had good results with Kaptons. Lesson learnt.

The other 'advise' you said I ignored was that an additional layer is wrong. Actually Stan's website says that it is one option.
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