Originally Posted by
ThermionicScott
Got any pictures, @
FastJake? I would assume you'd be building with good tension and stress-relieving, so the wheels ought to be lasting a lot longer, regardless of your track-standing. If the spokes were breaking at the elbows, I'd wonder if they are from a batch where there is too much length between the head and bend, so that they're not well-supported against the hub flange.
I didn't take any pictures but I can. I was wondering if spoke washers might be the solution, and if I decide to rebuild the wheel with the same hub I'm going to look very closely at the spoke head/flange interface and see if I need to fit some washers.
Originally Posted by
dabac
Unless you can safely - as in measured - say that the spoke tension was OK, I'm not gonna bother looking any further for another reason.
I don't own a tension meter... Probably time to buy one. This is the first time I've ever broken a spoke on anything though, and since I broke five on the same side I thought I could be missing something.
Originally Posted by
79pmooney
You say this is a Campy FW hub. Have you re-spaced it to remove most of the dish? If you are going to rebuild this, why not get a fix gear hub and 1) get a hub with very wide flanges, almost the same as a front with very little dish and 2) has provision for a lock ring.
True fix gear hubs make up wheels that are a joy to own. Those wide flanges with almost no dish (none if it is a flip-flop) make for very strong reliable wheels. Wheels that are a big step up from any FW or cassette wheel. I lace them like you, with 2.0-1.6-2.0 spokes (same but 1.8 on my city fix gear), 32 spoke 3X.
Ben
Yes, I re-spaced it for basically zero dish. Reasons I've never built with a track hub:
- Good ones are expensive (~$150). I don't want some CNC'd piece of junk with cartridge bearings.
- I prefer quick release.
I've tried to find old large-flange freewheel hubs but have been unsuccessful so far.