Reading your thread, your three issues are:

1. Internal cable routing for my dynamo front light
2. Eliminate the slight toe overlap I have in tight turns
3. A little less "wobbly" when parked and loaded with stuff in my front rack

All three could be addressed with a new fork with more rake. The last two could be addressed just by adding some rake to your current fork. With 45mm of rake and a 73 degree head tube angle, adding about 15mm more of rake would get your trail pretty close to 35mm, which is a good sweet spot for trail. Note that the online calculators will come up with a different number than that, because they don't take into consideration the front end drop and change in head tube angle. I've done enough rerakes on my jig to have a good model of it.

Here are the caveats to reraking: you need enough room between the fork crown and your fender to account for the shortening of the axle to crown distance. Looking at your picture, I would say measure it, but it appears at first glance that you do. I can't tell for sure, but I'd say your using a daruma to hold the fender in place, correct? You might have to decrease the threaded bolt length, either cutting or grinding it down, and cleaning up the threads afterwards, else it may get closer to your tire than you'd like. The porteur rack would have to be adjusted, of course, but it's made to do that. I'm also guessing you powder coated your frame, along with the chain guard. If so, as long as you didn't try to do a real tight "french" bend rerake, I'd bet that the powder coat would stretch with the fork and be ok.

Rather than internal wiring in the fork, why not put it inside the rack? If it were in the fork, you'd still have to figure out how to route the wiring from the fork out to the rack, and only hide half of the current exposed wiring. If that porteur rack is stainless, it wouldn't be much work to rework it with provision for hidden wiring inside the stays, up under the rack, and pop out right near your light. If you relocated the light from the fender to the rack, it would be even less wire showing. If it's chrome plated, a new one could be made to match the features you like on the old one - it wouldn't be worth stripping, reworking and rechroming.

All of that would cost should cost less than $400, and I think it would be a cleaner wire routing.