@powell-
Are you saying craigslist won't let you post an ad in the USA because you are in Canada? If so, I would be happy to post one for you if I can.

I know of 3 other E+ systems in my town, none of the owners want to sell. There were four, but one was stolen, without the controller or charger. It is probably in a dump now. Pity.

The speed calculations are never going to be really good because E+ didn't allow a means of specifying the actual wheel+tire circumference. I am using 29 inch wheels, so mine is always off since they assumed 26 inch wheels. That said, I'm not sure it's such a good idea to go 30+ mph on a bike. The E+ system is heavy and introduces loads on the bike components that are going to be beyond the usual design expectations. I was going about 32mph (downhill, -1 regen) last week and had to stop suddenly. The brakes worked fine, but the back tire couldn't hold it's grip and started to skid. It took a lot longer to stop than I would have liked.

This is total conjecture on my part, but I suspect that all of the E+ motors are 1000W. I think the ones sold as 750W have a governor circuit enabled in the controller that cuts the power at 20mph. Moot point, because there doesn't seem to be a way to get around it.

@ e_biker-
I know how to sound like I know more than I really do. Powell has a much better understanding, and I have learned a lot from him. I have a recollection of seeing somewhere that the battery cells or modules were matched sets. I don't know what that means, or how much difference it really makes. I think if you look around, you should be able to find a specialty battery company that could fabricate the modules for you. It won't be cheap. I wouldn't give up on your existing cells just yet, but if they turn out to be beyond salvage, I think I would try Powell's conversion to LiFePo batteries before trying to replicate the original NiMH setup.