Thanks for the complete description. Threading in with no clicks or grinding isn't what wrenches would equate with a skipped/slipped/stripped thread. This is only what happens as the final tightening torque is applied, the cup's threads slip one thread within the shell and the final tightening loosens up and is redone only to repeat the slip. It doesn't sound like this happened. So many will say that you have no problem.


The cup threads in smoothly with no resistance. It seats fully against the shell's face (it does, right?) It can be fully torqued down without issue. This is pretty much the definition of a properly done fitting.


Do know that clicks and creaking can and does come from the interface of other aspects about the BB. Like the spindle's fit within the bearing's ID. Or the removable arm(s) being well secured to the spindle. Or the pedals in the arms. Or the ring bolts being dry of lube of not really tight (in how they sandwich the rings, not it their threads are tight).


If I were you I would assemble the BB cups with HD grease between them and the shell to the proper torque. Then do the same with the spindle in the cups. Some arm/spindle interfaces don't want grease. But I believe you're running a pinch bolted arm so it will want grease on the splines and draw/pre load bolt. Then ride and see what happens.


BTW I read your last post about your friend's BB install as being on his bike. But it would be fitting if you meant on your bike, not that you specified this. Either way we don't know the history of these old parts or how they were maintained or assembled yet. Sorry to be such a pain but the little details can be important. We write stuff from a view point that only we have. Assumptions on how we describe are lost on the reader who doesn't share the writer's point of reference. This isn't a problem if you're not asking for help... Andy.