Thread: My E+ review
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Old 10-17-16 | 01:52 AM
  #321  
Firedog91902
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 8
From: San Diego

Bikes: Univega Superstrada, Serrota, Santana tandem, E plus

E Biker

A few day ago a dealer in Encinitas, CA had a Tidal Force front wheel (battery), rear wheel (1000w hub) and the controller module on CL for $300. No mention of charger. He said the battery is bad, but the rest is good. The listing is gone, so it may have sold. I don't know if a Tidal Force would help you anyway.

My 1000w E+ had a dead, un-chargeable battery when I got it. Even though most of the cell were 0 volt, individually, they all took a charge current. I charged them individually until they reached 1.2v (it didn't take long) and then connected the E+ charger to the whole battery. It's worked ever since although self discharge always a problem with NiMH. After a month, most of the capacity is gone. When freshly charged, my NiMH battery no longer has the rated 10AH but if the load is kept in the 300/400w range or less it will deliver 8AH. I use Lithium NMC tool batteries in parallel with the E+ battery, so even at 1000w (full power), the E+ battery is reporting less than 300 watts. The rest come from the tool batteries which are capable an amazing 60A at 36V = 2000w+!! Normal cruising (20mph, flat, me pedal) it draws less than 200 watts from the E+ battery so I get over 30 miles; more if I slow down a bit.

If you can't get your E+ battery to charge, I would suggest scraping it and converting to Li power. Powell has done all the hard work and documented it well. I'm sure he would help with any questions. Eventually, I too will get rid of the NiMH hub on my E+. It is sooo heavy.

One word of caution if you decide to purchase replacement NiMH D cells. I bought a "new" 10AH D cell on Ebay. I wanted to test, before buying 30. It came 0 volts and it wouldn't take a charge regardless of the voltage applied. The seller immediately issued a refund and didn't want the cell returned. I did an autopsy. The only thing new, was the shrink wrap and the thin nickel top and bottom. Underneath, the actual cell ends still had the spot weld marks from being ripped out of and old battery. Inside, the cell was bone dry. It is interesting that once a refund is issued on Ebay, the case is closed. You can't review the item or give feed back about the seller. He is still selling them and probably most work marginally. Usually, the buyer has no way to test that they are old.
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