Powell,
No switching tires in SoCal. I have to trim the palm trees once in a while. First pic is my E+ set up for the street. 100psi 26x1.5 tires. 50/11 top gear. The 2p2s Makita tool batteries add 9ah @ 36v to the NiMH front hub battery. With that gearing, I can pedal assist at 25 to 30mph and I get a very decent range.

What do the numbers mean on the rear hub label?

I've read much of your posts on removing the NiMH hub and moving the hub electronics to a box; using only Lithium power. Have you sorted that out completely using only the E+'s electronics? I'd like to get rid of the NiMH weight as well, but don't want to mess up the great controls and reliability of the bike as it sits now.

Another approach would be to use a different controller with the E+ motor hub. It looks to me that the E+ motor has 3 power wires in and 5 or 6 wires connected to the Hall effect sensors. I read somewhere the motor was 5 phase, but I don't understand how that is possible. Is there a power controller board inside the hub motor?

I use a 36V 800w Chinese kit on tandems with great success. Not as quite and smooth as the E+ and the only control is the throttle but it is very usable. The controller limits the amps to 30, so if you have decent batteries the hub actually delivers over 1000 watts. Great power. After 2 or 3k miles, no issues so far. The Chinese hub also has 3 power wires in with 5 Hall effect control wires. It runs even with out the hall effect sensors connected but not as smoothly. The chinese hub is 3 phase. Other than quality, how is the Chinese hub different from the E+?

Would the controller from the Chinese kit, possible work with the E+ hub? The whole kit (26" tire, wheel, hub. controller, throttle, brake levers, and nice bag) is $167 (no tax or shipping). Connecting the E+ hub to the Chinese controller, and throttle, would be a snap. The left over Chinese hub motor/wheel would be a nice backup for my tandem. Any thoughts?