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Old 11-08-16 | 03:17 PM
  #15  
DorkDisk
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,313
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From: Kips Bay, NY

Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning

In a climbing bike, I would look for:

-Lower weight, especially in the wheels. Overall heavy bike is OK, but lighter uppers (seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars) help when rocking. Lighter wheels help acceleration.

-steeper seat angle for easier transition from out of saddle to seated

-stiff bottom bracket for full power transfer

-short chainstays.

-crankset with low tooth count (24 min) and a close ratio cassette (28t max) for many usable low gears with small jumps in between. 32t are nice but the jumps are too high between gears. I like to run the smallest chainring possible for the BCD and no larger than 28 or 30 in rear. This also allows for a short cage derailleur and snappier shifting

-lower front end than high

-wider bars than narrow to allow breathing

-maybe bar ends for leverage
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