I take back the comment that it ran the same whether the hall wires were hooked up or not. I found once you un-pluged the hall wires and ran it without the hall wires you had to go back and connect the white learning wires again and let it re-learn. Once you make it learn again the pickup is faster and top end was faster with the hall wires installed . If after you disconnected the hall wires and ran it and you did not let it re-learn by connecting the two white wires it would perform the same whether you had the hall wires connected or not. Did it run without the hall wires connected? Yes it did but it was not as robust. This is the first I knew there there were learning wires much less what to do with them. They are important. I think it would be like running your car with the advance springs in a distributor missing (I had to futs allot with distributor timing advance springs on 8v's when I was young). I took it out tonight and hit 41 mph. I just started with ebikes 2 months ago and got a 36v that went 20mph first, then a 48v that went 30mph and now a 72v that went 40mph. I can barely catch a gear at 40mph. I already have an 11 tooth back free wheel. Now I'm looking at getting a 52 tooth front (I have 48 tooth now). And a shorter crank arm length? I do want to be able to pedal at the speed I'm going. It is still about exercise for me. Tonight for the 72v controller test, when I got back I shot the hub with an infrared temp sensor and it showed 140 degrees. With the 36v and 48v controllers the hub barely got warm. But I did overdo it for the test just to see what it would do. If it's going to fail I want it to fail on the test and not on a road trip. I may have to get a heavier duty hub motor. The controller showed 125 degrees. I ran the batt out to see where the cut out was and on the 72v controller it cut out at 58v. I have 5 20 cell 25R packs (12.5a). Thanks for the help guys. I wouldn't have gotten it running without you. Rich