Originally Posted by
RoadLight
Hi AngieD750,
When I'm looking for a bike to keep, I always start with the frame. And by "keep" I mean that I'd like it to last long enough to pass down to my kids So I would choose the bike with the best frame I can afford with the plan to upgrade the components in the future as I'm able. This also means choosing a frame with a bottom bracket shell that I like because this can have a great bearing on what bottom brackets and cranks you can use with the frame without resorting to adapters. Personally, I still prefer frames with the venerable English threaded bottom bracket shell so I can use my favorite: GXP.
The material the frame is made with is not necessarily an indication of quality and there are way too many half-truths and falsehoods circulating around the net about them. If I were buying a frame to last a long time I would choose a well-made composite frame that is purpose-built for the use I intend---if I can afford it. My second choice would be either steel if my budget is tight or titanium if it's not. There are some good aluminum alloy bikes now but aluminum is a flawed material because of the way it accumulates stress---even minor stress will add up over time to failure. There's a very good reason why many "good" alloy frames come with composite forks instead of alloy.
But all frame materials have been used to make good and bad bikes. So don't get stuck on any one material. The quality of design and construction can trump the best material.
Kind regards, RoadLight
Agree with most.
I'd look for a frame that fits me best. Material is less important. Especially if you can test ride a bike and see how you like it.
The reason carbon forks are used on alu frames is mostly because of marketing. Well built, quality alu frame will last long.
Components are all good - "upgrade" is also mostly marketing IMO. From 9 speeds you have enough gears for both tightly spaced gearing and a decent gearing range for climbs and flats. You won't go faster with 11 vs 9 speeds.
Having said this, I must add that Shimano 10 speed, except the newest 4700 Tiagra, has the most sensitive shifting - tightly spaced sprockets with very little cable movement per gear change is very sensitive to any play or friction in cables, housing. New 4700 10 speed, as well as all the 11 speed has that fixed, using significantly more cable movement per each gear change. Also, going over 8 speeds at the back, also because of a tighter gear spacing, systems are more sensitive to RD misalignment and play in RD pivots, but that is a worry in case of some damage (falling down on the RD, then aligning it back, or a worn RD).