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Old 12-04-16 | 11:06 AM
  #13  
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Loose Chain
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: USA

Bikes: 84 Pinarello Trevisio, 86 Guerciotti SLX, 96 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2010 Surly Cross Check, 88 Centurion Prestige, 73 Raleigh Sports, GT Force, Bridgestone MB4

The heel over pedal method does not take foot length into consideration either. Nor stack height or crank length. Neither do the "formulas" as all of these methods are intended to get you to a starting point that should be very close and needing fine tuning only. The Lemond formula works good for most as a very close starting point.

It seems to have become fashionable to run the saddles excessively high again. I was in behind (for a brief period ), a local group of training racer guys, they are fast and well equipped, I could clearly see half of them were over extending and rocking in the saddle. I also noticed those same fellows had their saddles tilted downward a bunch. I think they have done this so they can slide down on the nose to reduce saddle height, a compensation for having it set to high.

The easiest way to get into the "zone" is to use the Lemond formula or one similar, these are opinion driven forums, but I like to be scientific, being something of an engineer. They all seem to result in approximately the same height plus or minus.

And while it is true the human body is different from specimen to specimen, most people, in a more general comparison, are quite similar. If we put an orangoutang on a bicycle then we may need to adjust the formula, otherwise, they are a very good starting point. The Lemond Formula always puts one in the same place, then, from there one can consider the individual variations of rider and equipment for fine adjustment.

Could you imagine fitting Michael Phelps!!

And an opinion, only, once you get your saddle height, that is your saddle height, with minor variation (mostly for shoe and cleat difference) be it MTB, crit, cruiser or whatever.

Last edited by Loose Chain; 12-04-16 at 11:39 AM.
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