Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,286
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Originally Posted by
TallRider
The colors are from thin "cosmetic" anodizing with dye. Hard-anodizing (what this thread is about) is a thicker aluminum oxide coating that ends up a dull grey.
I'm looking at the TB14 as well, to replace the traditional/narrow-width box-section rims on a vintage bike. But I think the polished "silver" look works just as well with 80s-vintage frames (which almost always had "silver" aluminum for all their other components) as hard-anodized grey.
Now that I'm thinking of if though, Barrettscv, I think the late-80s rise of a few grey-anodized component groups (e.g., Shimano 600 with the tri-color label) and stems/bars may have followed rim aesthetics of the time. The hard-anodized rims are certainly best aesthetics for your bike above. It would make period-correct sense with mine, but silver would work just as well.
Attachment 550475
The polished TB14 look great also. They actually need more attention to keep clean, the polished finish doesn't hide a transparent film of road grime as well as the anodized.
Miche Primato hubs with H Plus Son TB14 rims.
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