Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,290
Likes: 5,383
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
No I don't make these for other then me and the wife. I'm no machinist and my little loose 6" Atlas lathe is a pain to run.
The trick is to figure out the attachment to the lever blade first. If the blade has enough space in it's backside then one can run a bolt in from that backside. Campy Ergo and Shimano STI don't have this space, hence the need to have a hollow post and the bolt running in through this hollow and into a backing nut.
If your lever allows a bolt to be run in through it's backside then the rest of the post is also vastly simpler. A one piece post with a cross hole (for the mirror's stalk/arm to extend from) and a set screw in the post's end to secure this stalk. No lathe work and only hand drills and files needed. This is how my mentor did his versions when all levers had exposed cables running out the tops of the bodies. My posts start as a .5" diameter AL rod available at many DYIs.
As to the actual mirror/lens I have bought a number of cheap auto rear view add on convex mirrors (usually with a foam double sticky backing) and found that their curvature was too great and not always consistent. Otherwise this choice would be a no brainer.
The locating of the mirror, and the post, is crucial to allow normal hand/finger positions and not interfere with braking or shifting. Mounting the post at the very upper end of the blade, as close to the body as possible, has been the best place by my experience. Inside modern levers this location is pretty busy and the outer surface of Shimano's levers are compound curved.
I welcome others asking more questions or contacting me directly about this. Andy