Old 12-18-05, 10:12 PM
  #23  
DiegoFrogs
Senior Member
 
DiegoFrogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Scranton, PA, USA
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times in 61 Posts
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
well Diego, thanks for all the info !

So far, I have re-packed the original headset bearings and they seem to work perfectly, there was no pitting on the race thingies at all ...

I chopped and flipped the track bars and then removed the rear brake, installed only the front brake on the end of the bullhorns... then I taped it up... sorry, this is my first time ever taping up some bars and it didn't come out so good...

Also, I could not manage to pull the crank off of the middle spindle shaft thing... however, I managed to unscrew one of the sides and pull it far enough out to spray a ton of gear lube into the BB .. Hopefully that'll hold it over until I get some kind of pulling tool to remove the stock cranks...

And yes, the ratio is kind of high... 56 x 14 I think ...

=)
[snip]

You'll need a 14 mm socket to get the nuts off the BB spindle, then a crank puller to remove the cranks. Don't try to futz around with this step without the right tool. I like the standard Park tool just fine for this. then you'll need a lockring tool and whatever size wrench those flats take... I forget. your "gear lube" spray probably made things much worse than they were. I'd also replace the 1/4" balls that are in there, as long as you're there.

I agree with the poster above about the brake issue. Are you headed towards fixed gear with this? Also might want to replace the brake cables and housing. They've probably seriously degraded over the last 20 years.
DiegoFrogs is offline