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Old 03-24-17 | 02:17 PM
  #19  
HerrKaLeun
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 233
From: Madison, WI

Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR1 and Motobecane Sturgis NX

Thanks for the lively discussion. and thanks for not just telling me to use the serachfunction as if I would have asked for the best chain lubricant :-)

I should add I have upright handlebars and don't intend to ever have drop bars. I also have my shifters the regular way and intend to keep it that way (front derailleur on left, rear on right).
The shifting is a concern since when slowing down i downshift. I have a SRAM (with the 2 thumb knobs for up and down), but in the future may have a Shimano (seems they are for index finger too). I guess my best bet is before I make any changes to the hydraulic lines I leave the long lines coiled up and ride the bike with front-right and see how it goes. I haven't had hydraulic brakes before and need to feel how strong they are and how well I can modulate them.

I really don't understand how turn signals matter. whne i make a right turn, i slow down and hold the right arm out. This takes it away from the right hand brake. for left turns the opposite. I don't see the one happening more frequently than the other. So ther eis a 50/50 chance to have access to the "wrong" brake whne signaling whether you are in the UK or the USA. For turns I signal I'm also prepared in advance, so an emergency braking isn't in order. It is not like a bicycle is ridden like a Porsche that one fully accelerates before hard-braking just for the heck of it.

I also wonder if Sheldon's advice on right-front is partially based on older cable brakes requiring the stronger right hand? I noticed a lot of the Internet opinion is based on cable brakes.

Well, I already have my right-front brake, so I have no choice than to order a rear-left brake. Since the store has them on backorder, I just have to wait. which also shows me going against the standard is expensive / inconvenient.
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