Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,352
Likes: 5,470
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
I have no written list although I have used the Barnet check list system when teaching my employees before. This is a very complete approach, not sure how current it is as my manuals were from the early 1990s before suspension/disks/et al.
But my personal method is to work from within and extend out. Take a wheel- To true it one needs to insure that the hub is well adjusted which means the cones and lock nuts are first properly counter tightened on the axle. Only then will working on the spokes have real meaning. And to seat a tire the rim must be true first. Brakes. The lever must be tight before the cable can be dealt with just as the caliper has to be adjusted before the cable is dealt with (in this case there's two "centers"). Then the cable is added. But before the final brake system is set the wheel needs to be so first. And so on.
I also tend to work on the bike front to rear. This comes from assembling so many boxed bikes and that ft wheels and bars are not installed yet. Getting the front done first reduced the parts dangling or about quickly. I tend to do the FINAL headset at the end as without being able to lock the front brake on and then rock the bike back and forth any headset adjustment is using only a portion of the possible feedback available. Andy.