My first two thoughts: 1) is your seat straight, ie in line with the bike so if you look down from the nose of the seat, the top tube and BB or the bike are in line? If yes, then, should it be straight for the best fit you your crotch? For many of us, the answer to that is "no". I ride all my bikes with the nose of the seat a touch to the left.

And 2) (as discussed above) leg length. I went to a PT a couple of years ago for injured achilles. In the first 5 minutes of my first session, she had me walk the room away from her, turn around and walk back. Diagnosed me right there with one leg longer than the other. Sent me home with 1/2" lifts to put in my shoes and orders to put them in all my shoes always. (Or get the shoes modified with lifts either inside or under the sole. Cycling shoes were to get heel lifts and 1/4" shims for the cleats.

This was life changing. On the bike and off. On the bike, I could look down and the top tube blocked out the rest of the bike for the first time ever. Likewise the front wheel and hub.

And to the bike fitter. I get where he is coming from. But this is a case where the seller is telling the customer he is wrong. A good fitter would recognize that this customer will be a slightly bigger challenge than most; that he (the fitter) has to suck it up and deal with it. (I for one am a huge fan of feet locked into pedals. Not floating clipless. I ride either zero-float clipless or traditional pedals with traditional slotted cleats and the toestraps pulled tight but I do not go around saying everyone else has to do the same. One reason for this is it helps my knees a lot. And I had to listen to bike shop employees tell me for many years that I had to go to float to protect my knees. Huh? Not forcing my feet to more than natural toe-in will have me getting a pair of knee replacements inside a year - of hell. What I have been doing has worked for 40 years.)

Ben