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...on doing the repair: The tool itself is pretty nifty, a combination tapered reamer that ends at the top in a correctly sized tap for the insert. So it's pretty hard to go wrong. But it is possible to get the tap going in at a slight angle if you're not paying attention, and then you're screwed because if you get the hole in at anything other than 90* you'll notice it on the pedal.

So do the repair in a vise, and use a carpenter's angle or some other device to make sure you're at 90* as the tap portion enters the crank. When installing the insert in the hole, it's just made of a very thin sheet material. So I like to use red Loctite (high strength) on the outside of it and use an old pedal spindle of the appropriate threading (L or R) to install the thing, which makes certain it's fully seated in the hole on the outside face. Then carefully remove the spindle.

The inserts are longer than the thickness of some cranks. So after the Loctite dries, mask the crank arm surface on the inside, and carefully remove any excess that sticks out using a bench grinder. You can cut off any excess, and finish it with a file, but a grinder does a slightly cleaner job if you're careful. I usually reinsert the pedal spindle for this operation.