Just replace the chain with the same as equipped -- probably a KMC X8 with Missing Link quick link. Good chains. I use KMC Z72 with Missing Link on two 7-speed bikes. They cost $8-$10 depending on where I buy them.

I replace chains about every 1,000-1,500 miles, which may be more often than some folks would need. But I ride a lot of gritty rural chip seal "pavement" (awful stuff) and gravel.

I'd rather replace the chains more often to save the chainwheel and cassette/freewheel teeth. Not a big deal with my comfort hybrid that uses the inexpensive Shimano MegaRange freewheels. But my mountain bike has an older Shimano Exage aluminum triple chainring that I'd like to preserve as long as possible; although the cassette is a fairly easy to replace Uniglide. My road bike has an old Suntour GPX group that I'd like to preserve as long as possible -- replacements are scarce and expensive. So it's more cost effective to replace the chain often.

Regarding cleaning and lubing, for the past couple of years I've used those spinning brush chain cleaning doodads with reservoirs for cleaning fluid. I clean the chains outdoors on the bike. Those doodads make it quick and easy. Then I wipe down the rear rim to clean off the spatter if I'm going for a ride immediately; or wash the entire bike.

With quick links like the KMC Missing Link we can remove the chain fairly easily to clean it in a closed container of mineral spirits. Some folks get fancy and use ultrasonic cleaners. I did that years ago on my older road bike, but it was a messy hassle. Smells funky too. Not a great solution for folks in small apartments with odor-sensitive partners or roomies.

To lube, I've used Park CL-1 drip liquid and Tri-Flow aerosol spray. The Tri-Flow is much quicker and easier, although it slops onto the rear cogs and chainrings. But it works well and lasts several rides depending on conditions. The Park CL-1 lasts longer per application and persists even through rainy rides. But it's a pain in the neck to apply, like any drip lube, and slops all over the rear cogs and chainrings.

And that's always going to be the problem with cleaning and lubing a chain on the bike. It's quicker but a compromise. You'll need to clean at least the rear rim afterward (might not be necessary with disc brakes). And there are endless arguments about whether we're actually cleaning the chain or just forcing grit into the links and making a fine abrasive paste with fresh lube.

Or we can wipe down the chain and ignore the fine abrasive paste of lube and grit in between the plates that's constantly rubbing the teeth on our cassettes/freewheels and chain rings.

So recently I finally decided to try wax. Heard and read plenty about it from fans. Got some Gulf wax (paraffin) from the hardware store, melted it in a spare crock pot I'd never used, dipped the clean chain and it's worked great on the errand bike that gets ridden maybe 20-30 miles a month on short hops.

Encouraged, I tried paraffin on the road bike with new chain. Much quieter running due to the paraffin, and smoother shifting due to the better KMC Z72 chain (the original 1980s Suntour chain was clunky). So far I have about 100 miles on the freshly waxed road bike chain. Works great.

Supposedly wax isn't as persistent through rain. We'll see with the errand bike, which I do ride rain or shine. Won't affect the road bike unless I get caught in an unexpected storm.

While it's a bit more hassle in setup, overall it's no worse than ordinary cleaning and lubing -- just different. The waxed chain doesn't pick up much grit, even on gravel rides. The cassette/freewheel cogs and chainrings stay sparkling clean -- well, pretty much. Very little schmutz. No more chain tattoos on my shins and socks. No fine abrasive paste of chain oil and grit gradually wearing stuff down.

But, yeah, I might go back to chain oil on the errand bike if it turns out wax doesn't hold up to rain. We'll see.