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Old 08-25-17 | 06:11 PM
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Kevindale
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,662
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From: Amsterdam

Bikes: 1980 Koga-Miyata Gentsluxe-S, 1998 Eddy Merckx Corsa 01, 1983 Tommasini Racing, 2012 Gulf Western CAAD10, 1980 Univega Gran Premio

Blocking and butchering a Brooks

Recently I gave my experience with a used B17 saddle (comfortable but has squashed with prior use and now bulges into my thigh). While I ponder trying a Professional or B17 Narrow or a Rivet Independent, I’ve decided to butcher and block this one. I've read threads here and elsewhere on how to do this, and there seems to be a fair bit of variation. My plan is to:

1) Cut away leather on the sides, as marked with painter’s tape. I’ll leave flaps that can be joined underneath for support.
2) Loosen the adjusting bolt a bit.
3) Get it wet with warm water. Per a post by [MENTION=73614]rhm[/MENTION], I won’t dunk it, as I often see recommended, but probably spritz it with a spray bottle to saturate it, to keep from leeching out any solubles with the water. I'll do this till it's saturated and soft.
4) When it’s good and wet, I'll pull the flaps under, clamp them together, and then I’m thinking of using some string, or something that won’t mark the leather, to tie the sides to shape the saddle to be as narrow as possible.
5) At this point I'm thinking to press a hard tube or dowel on top, down the center-line, lengthwise. I’m thinking from the rear center-line hole to about an inch past the front hole. The goal here is to get a modest relief channel for the perineum. I might use a CO2 cartridge for this as the tool, since that seems to have about the right diameter.
6) I’ll then let it air dry (no heat), sand/buff the edges, trim the material on the support band underneath, and lash those flaps together either with leather string or zip ties. Then tighten the bolt a bit, apply some Proofide, and enjoy my Swallow-like saddle.

Anyone see any major issues with this plan? Will I need to rig something to keep the dowel or CO2 cartridge pressed down while it dries?
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