Originally Posted by
joedab
My technique usually consists of adjusting the headset a bit too tight, then backing out incrementally either until the bearing seems right or it becomes too loose, in which case I retighten to the last increment and call it good. In short, this is a good number of cinching, providing ample opportunity for trauma to the locknut.
yeah you're doing it wrong
you get two Headset Wrenches -bike specific tool, not an adjustable crescent
one to hold the cone
one to hold the locknut
and you set the preload then countertorque them against each other to lock up, none of this incremental-back-and-fourth-too-loose-too-tight bullcarp home mechanic kludge job
no, the keyed washer isn't enough
if you're cheap,
at the very least you need ONE headset wrench - to hold the cone, and can use your old adjustable crescent to hold the locknut. but at any rate, without at least the one headset wrench on the cone you've been doing it wrong all this time.
disclaimer: some really old bikes don't have wrench flats on the cone, instead they have a knurled surface. you still need to grab that and keep it from spinning.