I told Sheldon back in the mid 80s how I did my ashtabula cranks... I guess it fell on dead ears. The most important thing is torquing down the drive cone that holds the chainring in place, especially these days with really poor fitting drive pins. This involves putting the crank in a vice and using a bottom bracket lockring wrench or similar tool with a long handle... 12" should suffice. As I've mentioned before in other threads it's not such a big deal on cruisers without coaster brakes but bikes with coaster brakes will put alternating forces on the drive cone causing it to loosen and tighten, if it wasn't torqued adequately, which causes variances in bottom bracket bearing play. From my experience this wasn't such a big deal with older bikes that seemed to have tighter drive pin and chainring drive hole tolerances but the newer ones just seem so sloppy and those are the ones I usually have problems with and the ones on which I have to modify/shim the pins or weldup the drive pin hole on the chainring and redrill it to an appropriate size. Ashtabula cranks and bearings aren't of the greatest precision however I can get mine to spin freely with no play or notchiness whatsoever.