Originally Posted by
xenologer
yeah you're doing it wrong
you get two Headset Wrenches -bike specific tool, not an adjustable crescent
one to hold the cone
one to hold the locknut
and you set the preload then countertorque them against each other to lock up, none of this incremental-back-and-fourth-too-loose-too-tight bullcarp home mechanic kludge job
failed to mention the wrench on the top race because I considered it a given although I usually hold it steady and cinch the top nut against it because it can be used as a kind of reference. I would like to know how you are able to finalize the bearing without what you refer to as the incremental-back-and-fourth-too-loose-too-tight bullcarp?
Originally Posted by
shelbyfv
I used to do it this way but it was explained to me (here on BF) why it needed to be done from looser to tighter, as described above by Andrew. I can't remember the reason, but it made sense at the time.
start with slightly too tight because I am much better able to detect an appearance of play as opposed to the other way around. I figure slight over-tightening will not have a lasting effect the way leaving a headset tight develops race brinelling, though perhaps this is delusion or dare I say home mechanic kludge.