Originally Posted by Josef Taylor

I experimented with a four-lever setup on my trekking bars: mountain bike levers on the closer, flat portion of the bar, and old style (non aero) road levers on the front, curved section. The non-aero levers can be set up as inline levers, since cable housing is about the same diameter as the cable end for road brakes, and these older levers point the end of the cable out behind the levers, instead of straight ahead, through the levers.

This made the cable run from the mountain lever, to the top (inboard, in this orientation) of the road lever, then from the bottom (outboard) of the road lever down to the brake.

The setup worked fine, but I didn't like the ergonomics, because both of those positions were too much like a flat bar, which tend to hurt my wrists. The position given by the hoods was too narrow for me. I've since switched to Albatross bars, with the same mountain levers. I considered using inverse (TT) levers, but heard that the ring and pinky fingers, while lacking the dexterity of your other fingers, have the strongest grip, and so should be given the most leverage for maximum braking force.

EDIT: the clamps on road levers are much less finicky about bar diameter than most mountain levers, so I didn't have a problem clamping them to the 22.2mm bar. Most inline levers, however, won't get that small without a shim.