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.. [MENTION=10528]Nicodemus[/MENTION] has lived in Rome for an extended period (I think maybe he's still there), and I know he cycled at one time, but not certain he was courageous enough to do it in Rome. You could try a PM to him.

I lived in Italy for about a year, but it was so long ago (1970) as to be unreliable with regard to today's conditions.

I don't recall seeing many bicyclists on the roads back then either in Rome or Naples, or anyplace in between for that matter.